Pic.1, The propped stone waterfall
I hope to show that one propped boulder in particular in this study shows very little chance of being the result of a natural process & has some of it's practical functions still evident. Perhaps it will in some small way further the study in this field.
Pic.2, The rocky shoreline at Nanjulian Cove near Nanquidno, Penwith Cornwall
facing north with The Brisons twin peaked island in the distance
Pic.3, Nanjulian Cove & Carn looking south towards Sennen Cove
Nanjulian Cove (pron. nan-JU-lian) is a beautiful & secluded stream valley coastal cove close to the tiny hamlet of Nanquidno (pron. nan-QUID-no) near the town of St. Just in Penwith, south-west Cornwall. It is a place very familiar to me as I have visited friends there for years. But, just like the propped stone structure at Carn Galver (previous post; https://ancientwhisperspenwith.blogspot.com/2020/03/carn-galver-propped-stone-structure.html), there are some rock features down on the cove that I have clambered over for years that have only come into focus as something special recently.
The "Nan..." in both names comes from the Cornish for valley (nans), "julian" has nothing to do with the christian name but refers to the stream, or final part of the stream before it reaches the sea. (There is evidence in local regional nomenclature to suggest that different stretches of streams may have had different names). "...julian" is a corruption of the Cornish word "selin" meaning "elbow" or "angle" & probably refers to the fact that the stream flows down the valley in a north-easterly direction, then, just passed the old mill house at the head of the cove, it turns a very tight 90° angle & heads south-west towards the sea. "...quidno" in the second place name is said to be from an old Celtic name "Gwynnyou" which is such an old name that it could be from someone who lived in the valley anything up to a thousand years ago.
The cove offers views from The Brisons, a twin peaked island to the north-west, down to Sennen Cove, the Land's End peninsula & Longships Lighthouse to the south-west. It is dominated by the high rocky tor of Nanjulian Carn rising on the southerly shoulder of the valley. Throughout the year the sun sets into the sea as the coast runs from north to south & throughout spring & summer it sets directly in front of this cove shining up the valley until sunset Illuminating the rocks & waterfall. T is truly a most beautiful place to be at anytime but especially on a sunny spring or summer afternoon - evening.
Tin Streaming
The stream (streams are locally often referred to as rivers) has had it's natural course severely altered & diverted by a process of tin mining known as streaming which has been in use since early medieval times. The earliest written record of tin streaming comes from the 12th century.
As the rocky carns or tors on either side of valleys crumble over the millennia, the deposits of tin ore fall & collect in the valleys. The valley debris is loosened with picks then power of the streams is utilised by digging leats to blast away the surface material & wash away the sand & debris to leave the heavier ore. The workings usually starts at the bottom of the valley & then continues upstream. Of course this process devastates the natural lay of the whole area, scouring out the valleys to a depth of up to 15 feet & leaving large mounds of rubble which are characteristic of streamed valleys.
This method was used extensively in the south-west of the UK. Every single stream valley in the Penwith area of Cornwall shows evidence, also much of north Cornwall, Bodmin Moor & Dartmoor.
The valley at Nanjulian, as can be seen in the pictures below, has been ravaged by this process over the centuries leaving large piles of debris & remains of out-buildings which were probably constructed using ready available building stone from the ancient features that were around. Despite this usage, the area still retains great natural beauty & one can only wonder how it appeared before it's industrialisation.
Pics.4 & 5, The valley at Nanjulian Cove, much altered with piles of rubble & the remains of buildings from the process of tin streaming
(click on images to enlarge)
Of course, it's possible (if highly unlikely) that this boulder rolled down the valley slope & came to rest perfectly next to a cascade, perching itself on a smaller rock, or that it eroded gradually over millennia to this assembly, but there are features that as good as prove that it it constructed.One thing is the fact that there is an acute angled triangular piece of granite slab that has been provided underneath the rear of the boulder to elongate the natural flat rock so the boulder sits level (see pic. below).
Pic.8, A wedge shaped piece of slab Granite propping the rear of the boulder level
(front propping rock in foreground right of picture)
Behind the propped boulder (& also it's adjoining ones) there is evidence of rubble type infill (see pics. below) so it looks like it was actually part of a wall that ran across the rocky ridge of the cove enclosing it from one side to the other. On inspection there are quite a lot of boulders that look like they were part of this cove enclosure wall, some with rubble infill.
Pics.9 & 10, The rear of the propped boulder (top)
& the adjoining rock (bottom) with infill rubble behind each.
In fact looking at the site from back towards the shoreline a distinct line of what look like large granite walling planters are visible running in a line from an alcove by the eroded bank to the waterfall (see pics. below - click on images to enlarge)
It's also possible that the propped boulder was an earlier feature that was incorporated into the wall.
It's also possible that the propped boulder was an earlier feature that was incorporated into the wall.
Pics.11 & 12, enclosure wall, the propped boulder, the waterfall, Nanjulian Carn & Land's End
(click on images to enlarge)
At the beginning of the wall in the alcove by the eroded bank there is a large cuboid granite block (see pics. below). The underside is the only surface that is uneven & looks like it could have been propped up on small pointed rocks to level it but it is also possible that it occurred naturally. The abutting large rock sticks up at a dramatic angle. It could have been positioned like this but it looks to me that some walling was either washed from under it by the tide or robbed causing it to pivot & wedge against the block.
The alcove that cuboid block is in could have been some sort of shelter.
Pics.13 & 14, In an alcove a large granite boulder is jammed against a cuboid block
that appears to be propped level with small pointed stones
Aside from being part of an enclosure wall another function of the propped boulder becomes apparent when approaching the site along the coastal path from the south. From this vantage both the stream & the cascade are not visible, There is a stream visible in the foreground but this one was diverted from the further for use in the tin streaming works. It is the northernmost stream that is the original in my opinion.
I have mentioned before that the propped stone is not visible in it's immediate surroundings to it's rear but is so along the high coastal path & even up on the top of Nanjulian Carn (see pic. below) In fact it looks like the enclosure wall pulls back in direction after the propped boulder leaving it at the head of a protrusion in the wall & so visible from the high south approach. Bear in mind that in ancient times the sea would have been further away (perhaps much further) so the propped stone would probably have been more clearly visible without the eroded rocky shoreline behind it. So another apparent function of the propped stone is to mark an important but concealed water source & feature.
Pic.15, The propped boulder marks the waterfall & stream as they are not visible from the southern approach coastal path
The Sunset Chair
Another feature that I would consider definitely part of this site is the "sunset chair" which is a curious sharp recess in the rock immediately beside the cascade, on the other side to the propped boulder (see pics. above & below. I can't work out how this feature came to exist but something natural or otherwise must have lifted a large piece of rock out of the base rock in a slightly upward direction as the flat bottom of the recess points slightly upward. It is in quite an awkward position to get a good photograph that displays it properly.
However it came about it has made a perfect recess seat facing the sunset. When sat in, the rear is the perfect rest for your back, your feet dangle pleasantly over the edge & because of the gentle upward angle the body position is delightfully relaxing.
As the sides of the seat rise up either side of you, it acts as a kind of sonic funnel so all the sounds around you are cancelled out except the sounds of the sea in front of you.
Also any utterance that you make can be fully appreciated as it prevents loss of sound & when singing or toning a deep rich resonance is achievable.
To be honest, the edges (especially inside) seem a little sharp for this feature to appear truly ancient, but it is protected from wind erosion in all but one direction. One reason that it may be from the same time is the fact that it appears to have also been marked with its' own propped boulder (see pics. below).
Whether the result of nature, tin streaming or whatever, it is a great feature & a real addition to the site.
Whether the result of nature, tin streaming or whatever, it is a great feature & a real addition to the site.
Pic.17, The sunset chair next to the cascade, topped with it's own (smaller) propped boulder
Pic.18, The propped boulder on top of the "sunset chair"
Pic.19, Above view of the "sunset chair" showing rubble infill behind it & it's propped boulder
Pic.20, The enclosure wall, the propped boulder, the waterfall & the "sunset chair" recess seat
topped with it's own propped boulder
(click on image to enlarge)
When I first stumbled across the cascade it was not quite as it appears in the photographs above as there was hardly any water going over it. just enough to wet the surface weed giving it the appearance of sweating leather (see pic. below).
I longed to see how it would have appeared in full flow back in the day but didn't think it was possible to achieve. Studying the stream diversions created by the tin streamers of old I realised that just before it reached the waterfall, approximately 10 feet of the original stream bed had been filled in & the water diverted onto the rocks where they flowed down a series of improvised rock pools that obviously were used to separate the heavy tin ore from the lighter sand & debris.
The surprising thing was that a channel had been supplied to return the flow back to the cascade when the pools were not in use. It's as if the workers, or people who used & loved it, were not prepared to sacrifice the waterfall for the workings. One of the few considerations given to the surrounding environment!
It seemed that the flow had been returned to the cascade after the streaming works had ceased. However over time the flow had washed many leaks in this channel & the water had returned to the rock pools but, with a couple of handfuls of pebbles & stream sand I was able to repair the breaches & restore the cascade to a singing torrent. It was one of the most satisfying things I have ever done.
I think there are civil laws against diverting bodies of water but not against repairing breaches to an existing flow so I think I'm alright legally!
Pic.21, Before; hardly any flow, just enough to wet the surface weed giving a sweaty appearance
Pic.22, & After; a strong flow restored to the cascade (with midsummer evening glow)
So the workings of man through the ages has scoured the valley on one side, right up to a rocky ridge across the shore where the sea itself has encroached the land on the other side leaving a thin rocky strip that seems to retain some ancient evidence. It just makes me wonder why the cove was enclosed, what was here before the intense mining & how beautiful was it back then?
Other features close to the site
Pic.23, The remains of what probably was some kind of dwelling
next to & utilising a large natural flat rock
Also, close enough to be considered relevant to the site, is the remains of what looks to have been some kind of dwelling.
If you were to climb up the eroded bank by the alcove at the end of the wall, where the propped cuboid block stands, up onto the grassy plateau above, you will come to a large, natural lying flat rock (see pics. above & below). This rock lies against & is incorporated into the dwelling.
It appears that the seaward corner of the rock was probably the entrance as there is what looks like a door jamb opposite. Along the line where the door would have closed it looks like the corner of the large flat rock has been flattened & a thresh-hold doorstep has been chipped into it.
Outside the doorway is a slender approach alley where there is a step up & a corner of the opposite rock has been chipped away for easier access.
There are at least three levelled living areas & at the rear what appears to be a small set of steps leading up to at least one very small room or storage space, the most obvious of which has a natural level stone floor (see pics. below).
This dwelling certainly isn't the usual roundhouse type & is quite hard to work out. It has every possibility of being more recent in date than the aforementioned features.
If you were to climb up the eroded bank by the alcove at the end of the wall, where the propped cuboid block stands, up onto the grassy plateau above, you will come to a large, natural lying flat rock (see pics. above & below). This rock lies against & is incorporated into the dwelling.
It appears that the seaward corner of the rock was probably the entrance as there is what looks like a door jamb opposite. Along the line where the door would have closed it looks like the corner of the large flat rock has been flattened & a thresh-hold doorstep has been chipped into it.
Outside the doorway is a slender approach alley where there is a step up & a corner of the opposite rock has been chipped away for easier access.
There are at least three levelled living areas & at the rear what appears to be a small set of steps leading up to at least one very small room or storage space, the most obvious of which has a natural level stone floor (see pics. below).
This dwelling certainly isn't the usual roundhouse type & is quite hard to work out. It has every possibility of being more recent in date than the aforementioned features.
Pic.24, A level dwelling space with a door jamb visible towards the sea
& what looks like a small set of steps at the back
Pic.25, (from right) Door jamb, chipped thresh-hold doorstep, step up & corner chipped off
adjacent rock for easier access
Pic. 26, The set of steps lead up to a small, stone floored room or storage space.
If you look at the top two photos of the dwelling remains above you can just make out a large granite block standing right on the distant cliff edge in front of Nanjulian Carn (see also pics. below).
Pic.27, Large granite block on the cliff-edge in front of Nanjulian Carn
with Land's End in the distance
Again it is possible that this block rolled down from the carn & came to rest in this sentry-like position all by it's self but it could also have been guided down to this spot for a specific reason.
Pic.28, This block is large enough to act as a marker visible from the surrounding landscape
& also the sea
It's too dangerous to see if this rock has any propping or leveling rocks underneath the front like the large standing stone on Carn Lês Boel which strikes me as similar to this one (see other posts; https://ancientwhisperspenwith.blogspot.com/2019/01/the-st-michaelmary-alignment-my.html / https://ancientwhisperspenwith.blogspot.com/2019/03/the-carn-les-boel-seahenge-drombeg.html & https://ancientwhisperspenwith.blogspot.com/2019/07/clb-seahenge-pt-2-lands-end-wash.html)
but there are certain "coincidental" aspects that could have made it very useful: First it's large size, this rock can be seen from a distance in both coastal directions (we have already established that it would have been clearly visible from the dwelling) but also from quite far out to sea.
Secondly, if you look up at it from the rocky shore at the bottom of the cliff, you will notice that it stands exactly above a sea-cave (see pic. below).
Pic.29, The large stone block stands on the very edge of the cliff top directly above a sea-cave that could have been used to store some kind of ocean faring vessels perhaps
There is rising rocky ground in front of this cave obscuring it's view from the sea so the granite block would be a useful marker if, for instance, the cave was used to store seafaring vessels.
Of course the cliff has suffered severe erosion so it can't be proved whether this cave existed in ancient times but it is also possible that it could have been bigger & deeper.
Very close by, along the shore to the south is the site of the remains of a more recent slipway for boats to access the sea & this is the cliffy side of Penwith where such access is scarce so this could lend some confirmation to this idea.
Very close by, along the shore to the south is the site of the remains of a more recent slipway for boats to access the sea & this is the cliffy side of Penwith where such access is scarce so this could lend some confirmation to this idea.
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Propped stone, Pedn-an-Vounder beach near Porthcurno
Pic.30, Propped Granite block near Pedn-an-Vounder beach
Not completely unconnected to the main feature as this rock seems to have been propped level using small pointed stones rather like the large cuboid block at the start of the wall at Nanjulian.
It's doubtful that this rock would have been placed as a marker as it can't be easily spotted from anywhere around, not even the sea. It looks to me more like a central stabilising planter for a wall along the edge of the ledge, the rest of which over time must have toppled over the edge.
The placing of the stone could be the cause for the collection of sand on this platform as the small propping rocks underneath block the channel where the sand would normally have washed away. So the sand could have started collecting from the time the stone was placed.
The location of the platform offers great vantage & a spectacular view of the iconic headland of Treryn Dinas to the south-east which was an iron-age promontory fort but has evidence of usage from the dawn of history & is the home of the Logan Rock (see previous post; .https://ancientwhisperspenwith.blogspot.com/2020/03/carn-galver-propped-stone-structure.html)
Pic.31, Perhaps the remains of a wall on a useful platform in the cliff
Pic.32, the platform offers spectacular views of the Treryn Dinas promontory & the Logan Rock
Pic.33, The propping stones underneath preventing the sand from being washed away
Pic.34, Propped level with small pointed rocks similar to the cuboid block
in the wall at Nanjulian Carn
(Translation of place names influence; The Place Names Of The Land's End Peninsula by Craig Weatherhill)
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During work on this particular blog post it was announced that the author, historian, archaeologist, bard, Cornish language speaker, patriot & campaigner Craig Weatherhill sadly passed away from illness on 18th July.
Although I never met the man I had enormous respect for his work & vast knowledge on all things Cornish especially his books on history/archaeology & local place names. His influence is easy to spot in my own work. He shall be sadly missed.
